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Israel/Palestine
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I hadn't planned to go to Israel or the Palestinian
Territories this trip, but lack of enthusiasm for Wadi Rum left me with
several free days before flying home.
One of the problems with visiting Israel is that if they
stamp your passport, you will not be allowed into countries like
Syria. But since I had already visited Syria, and have no plans to
go back to the Middle East, I decided to test a suggested method for
circumventing this dilemma: I asked the Israeli clerk at the border
to stamp another piece of paper.
She asked me why, and I told her that I might return to
Syria. She looked at me quizzically and asked why I'd want to do
that. I replied that I have friends there. She frowned, but
stamped the other paper as I had asked.
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So I hopped a minibus for Jerusalem
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On the way I struck up a conversation with a woman German
woman who lives in northeastern Jordan. I mentioned that I live in
Olympia, the home of Rachel Corrie, the young woman who was killed
(knowingly) by an Israeli bulldozer who was demolishing Palestinian
homes--a favorite pastime of the oppressive Israeli occupiers.
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She replied that Rachel is one of her heroes--as she is for
many people who follow that conflict.
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The bus dropped me just outside Herod's Gate, one of the
main entrances to Old Jerusalem...
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...which at night, during a celebration, takes on a
festive air
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I had no clue where I was going, but was helped by this
very friendly Israeli couple.
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In my travels it has been a common occurrence to be helped
by locals. In Istanbul, one man led me about 10 blocks (around 8
corners) to where I needed to go.
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In the Middle East, it's common to see juice vendors
like this
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Not sure the significance of this headpiece, but it's
charming, no?
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The Western Wall (Wailing Wall)
No photography is allowed along the railing that you see
in the center of the photo
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But I managed to capture this shot, just inside that
railing
It reminded me of the Biblical account of Jesus with the
elders in temple (though I suspect that this chap wasn't treated as an
equal)
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I saw this photo displayed in a photography shop in the
old city.
No significance; I just like the whole look.
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I spent only three days in Israel. Two of those days
I booked a tour with a Palestinian man working out of the Jerusalem Hotel
dining room, going into the Palestinian occupied territories.
The first day we toured numerous locations of political
significance in and around Jerusalem, focusing on the "security"
wall and the settler communities.
The second day we traveled south about an hour to
Hebron, a city where the conflict between settlers and established
Palestinians is especially bitter.
So the rest of this blog entry will focus on photos from
those two tours.
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The first day the tour dealt with locations with
political significance in and around Jerusalem
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The reason I put quotes around the word
"security" is that that is a euphemism for the actual intent.
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In a number of cases the wall separates one Palestinian
community from another--with the obvious intention of driving them from
the area
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The editorializing needs no comment
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These guard towers are especially oppressive
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As are the checkpoints, where Palestinians are subjected
daily to humiliation and abuse.
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In Hebron, the settlers have forced much of the commerce
in the main part of the city to cease.
Here we saw closed shops along streets that once
thrived.
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Here's a mosque that the Israelis have taken control of,
forcing the Palestinians to share time with its use as a synagogue.
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Israeli settlers have taken up occupancy above
now-abandoned stores.
They throw trash down, causing the Palestinians to
stretch netting across to keep their streets clean.
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One of the most depressing things I saw was a group of
Jewish children in Hebron, each with his own very realistic weapon
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And there was palpable hostility from them, since they
knew we were there as part of a Palestinian-related tour
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One Palestinian family graciously hosted us, with
typical Middle East hospitality
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