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Part
1, written while I
was in Turkey, is a text-only piece.
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Home
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Part
2, Touring
Turkey with a Magnet
No, the magnet didn't attract steel
filings. It attracted people.
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It was this little guy. I wore this the
whole time in Turkey. It continually caused eyes to shift my
way. Walking through the Spice Bazaar, for example, it seemed that
every second shopkeeper would squint at the button and exclaim, "Booosh!
What means 'impeeech'?" And I would give them a couple of
dramatic gestures, such as the thumb jerked skyward, saying "Get
him outa there!" and their eyes would dance with delight!
And a couple of times I was surrounded by 8 or 10 young Turks,
20-somethings, delighted to see the button and what it meant.
Of course, virtually anyone I met from Europe tuned in instantly,
often with appreciative remarks or thumbs up.
Only two people during the whole trip reacted negatively--both
shopkeepers. One man said, "I like Booosh!" I
said, Doesn't it bother you that he's destroying a whole country?
"No problem, I like Booosh." When I made essentially the
same response to the other shopkeeper on Samos, he replied, "Don't
worry, history will forget." (Prolly true.) |
Lycian Way
As I hiked a portion of the Lycian
Way this was the view from much of the trail--sea on one side,
hills on the other.
This is known as the Turquoise Coast
Hard to take, huh?
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Ending the hike, I descended to Oludeniz
lagoon, a famous beach in this area. Stunning views, excellent
swimming, perfect ending for a hike.
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Throughout Turkey I was constantly
impressed with the appropriateness of transport. Scooter trucks
like this are common--kept alive forever by ingenious owners. The
scale is right. The same is true of buses: excellent and
comfortable long-distance buses, with the mini-bus (dolmus) handling
much of the metropolitan traffic.
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View of stunningly beautiful harbor at
Fethiye, from my hostel.
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Mezes
A meze is an appetizer, a starter. There are cold mezes and
hot mezes.
Shown here is a sampler of mezes served by master chef Asli, at
Fethiye's Sinbad restaurant--arguably the best in Fethiye, maybe in
Turkey :)
Clockwise from upper left: semizotu, haydari (yoghurt &
garlic & mint), roasted bell peppers, hummus, stuffed peppers; with
a salad in the center. Yummm.
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Oops, hit a bump
In Fethiye, on the southern Aegean coast, as I was walking I
passed this scene below me. A voice called, "English,
English, come!" That was Hassan, sitting on the steps outside
his house. I came and sat beside him; he spoke broken
English. "Glass of wine, English?" How could I
refuse? I knew enough not to.
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He then had his wife Ulten (here fixing a
meal in the indoor outdoor kitchen) bring a little bowl of fruit.
Hassan pressed another glass of wine on me, over my objection, and then
Ulten brought me a small meatball sandwich (kofte, I think). At
this point I was confused, unsure of the situation. After a bit I
got up to thank Hassan and leave.
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Hassan immediately said "Lira!
10 lira!" (about $7.50) in a gruff voice. Once I recognized
he'd been scamming me, I said, "I'll bring you the money
later." he said, more gruffly, "No, now!" I beat a
hasty retreat, saying I was going to get the money.
Famed Turkish hospitality is not universal.
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But Turkish hospitality is
intact. On the bus from Antalya to Konya I sat next to a young
Turk named Alptekin, a university student. He spoke a bit of
English, asked me where I was staying in Konya. I told him I
didn't know, and he promptly invited me to stay in his apartment.
Such a gracious and generous host. Thanks, Alptekin. |
Ephesus
Here's all that's left of the great Celsus library at
Ephesus--just the facade
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Imagine watching a play at this great
theater at Ephesus, with excellent acoustics and a panoramic view out to
the sea.
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Kas
On the Mediterranean coast, here is the view from my room in Ay
Pension, very close to the harbor in Kas.
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Here's Kas, from across the harbor.
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Selcuk
Wandering the streets again in poor neighborhoods, I come across
this craftsman, whose primary tools are the wire, the wood bar--and his
body.
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Capadoccia
A weird, charming, unique area in central Turkey, Cappadocia was
covered in lava and ash millions of years ago. Hardened into
"tufa," it became carveable--into homes, churches, whole
cities.
The town of Goreme has many such caves, some shown here.
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Tufa spires are common throughout the
region.
Most cave rooms have now been abandoned.
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Walking the back streets of Goreme, I
greeted this grandmother, who offered me a cluster of grapes--and a
soft, very genuine smile.
I love old faces.
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Goreme Open Air Museum
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Cappadocia's most famous attraction is a
complex of several painted cave-churches carved out by Orthodox monks
between 900 and 1200 AD. The striking thing is the tiny size of
the churches--often no more than perhaps 15 feet wide and 20 feet long.
Virtually all the churches had elaborate frescoes, some quite
impressive. |
The Apple Church
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The Dark Church
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Istanbul re-visited
In my last couple of days in Turkey, I couldn't resist again
walking the streets in poor neighborhoods, this time in the Fener area
of Istanbul
Here's David Mecal, a shopkeeper who spoke fluent Spanish.
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Huseyin Ersen, Ahmet Acun, and Abdullah
Octurk
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Sabri Yanik
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Sadek Akin
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Sibel, with young friend, and other
neighborhood kids.
I love kids' faces
They of course loved seeing themselves on the camera's LCD
display.
These kids were hanging around a group of about 8 women--all of
whom refused to be photographed when I asked permission.
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Unidentified man in Fener
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Men washing their feet before entering the
New Mosque
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The New Mosque, Istanbul
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Dome of the New Mosque
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That's it. |
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Home |
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